I am becoming a little bored of being electrocuted every time I open the fridge
door. Or, for that matter, touch a handrail before climbing steps into a building.
And then I get a shock, once indoors, when I hang my overalls on their metal
peg in the boot room. The same happens when you pass someone a cup of tea and
your fingers touch.
You know those blue spongey kitchen cloths that come flatpacked super brittle
but go soft when you get them wet and then stay soft forever? Well here, they’re
always super brittle. Even when you use them every day. Pints of water are a
must last thing at night and first thing in the morning, not just when you’ve
been drinking. Moisturiser and anti-dandruff shampoo aren’t just for girls.
This is the driest place on Earth.
I’ve just come off a week of nights. Blissfully task-free other than the basic
duties of bread, met obs and a little cleaning. My first night-shift in April
was a big deal, I remember, would the bread be acceptable to the boys, whom
do I wake if an alarm goes off, what is the fire drill procedure, how many octres
of stratus cloud are there, is the mirror in the bathroom spotless? This time
round, I remarked only on how easy and wonderful it was. No agenda, nothing
to do but whatever I wanted to do in that moment. (That’s something else I’ve
learnt here,- to lose my fear of boredom. To overcome that guilt feeling associated
with watching a film, reading a book, daydreaming a day away.)
Making bread has become almost normal for us and if it’s rubbish bread, well,
tough… or I’ll make another batch. Met obs are a nice opportunity to go outside
at 3am and 6am. My first few nights were beautifully clear, starry and dark.
We even had a couple of auroras. By 6am, incredible layered clouds, pink, red,
the morning sunrise colours emerging in stripes. Halley Haze. It’s great when
all the buildings look like they’re floating. At the end of the week a storm
was approaching, wind speed soared, snow blew past my face, it was dark and
wild. That could well have been my last week of darkness here; soon it will
be light most of the time, or at least most of my waking hours.
The storm is here now. Forty knots for the past few days but dropping soon
I hope. I do enjoy the wild weather but it is a hindrance to everyone’s work
and you start feeling a bit cooped up after a while. Plus, three people have
been stuck on base for the last week when they were hoping to be on a post-winter
trip. On Sunday we decided to go ouside despite the weather. A couple of us
helped dig melt-tank just for the hell of it, it gets you outside and moving
after all, and then we tried putting a pup tent up in a gale. These are the
emergency tents used if you’re caught out in the field – so why not try
them in more realistic conditions? I’ll give it to BAS: they are ridiculously
simple to erect, even in a storm. After that we rode Craig’s bike around under
the platform for a while. As you do. Not quite the weather for golf.
One of the funniest things I heard this week is that we’re running out of
tea bags. No, really, this is serious. Not just a serious fact, but a serious
problem. I actually don’t know what will happen if it’s true. We have apparently
got through over 13,000 tea bags and about 2 tins of instant coffee. Horlicks,
Ovaltine and herbal tea are drunk, but it’s not the same, is it? This is a very
British base after all. During the winter months here, outdoor work is tiring
purely due to the cold. After even 20 minutes outside, you have earned a cup
of tea. And anyone else who’s around will probably join you. Personally, I think
if anything is going to turn us into crisis mode, this is it. I’ll keep you
posted.
It’s very bitty. I am dredging my brains to try and think of something new
to say, something you haven’t heard before. A friend wrote to me recently and
said she felt like she knew what my life was like thanks to these blurbs. In
contrast, I couldn’t really imagine hers at all. That’s odd, isn’t it? I could
take it as a compliment about my writing but suspect it has more to do with
the fact that life down here is incredibly simple and repetitive, there’s only
so much to say and then I have to start saying it all over again. In contrast,
I can never know everything about anyone elses life in the ‘normal’ world. We
don’t even know that of our loved ones, nearest and dearest who we live with
at home or work with every day. We share only a part of anyone’s life. Home,
work, school, office, hobbies, sport, recreation, films, families, friends from
the past, colleagues, aquaintances, daily commute, thoughts, dreams, aspirations,
the person you buy your milk from in the morning. Everything that makes up your
day at home involves so many other people. Your life is a composite of so many
lives. Even if I were to spend a month living with my friend, I’ll only ever
know the part of her life that she shares with me, and only ever know the person
she is when I am around. In contrast, I share most of my thoughts here with
the same people, watch the same films, discuss the same ideas, work with them,
live with them, drink with them, experience the same storm and the same halo
with them. I see them as they are with me, but also who they are with others
as well. We see different things of course and have vastly different opinions
and backgrounds, but we’re getting to know these as well.
Thankfully, we still surprise each other and Halley still surprises me but
my point is, it’s simple. For me, it’s a happy place, I am very contented here.
There are others I know however who really just want to go home. But still I
think it’s odd that you can know so much about my dailyness and I know nothing
at all about yours. It doesn’t matter, I’ll be back in yours before I know it
and can re-experience it all over again. For now, let me indulge in this feeling
of space and ease of living. It can’t last forever but it’s pretty goood for
right now.
hey rhian
so here you are! excellent photographs, and what a wonderful sounding adventure. we canadians miss you… and have news, some of it unfortunately sad. please get in touch… when you can…
happy equinox…. peace and love from the northern hemisphere
If it’s so incredibly dry down there, can’t you just leave the old teabags out for a day or so and then reuse them?
Can’t you use little bunches of toilet paper as the filtration device? Or is it the actual tea you are out of?
Hello, like most things on the web, I stumbled across this blog by accident. I had to write to you because the pictures you posted have made me very homesick. 4 years ago I spent three months in a tent many hundreds of miles to Halley’s east in Dronning Maud Land. We were operating a blue-ice runway and I was the cook in the camp. It was both heaven and hell to be in such an environment but I had the time of my life. I hope to return to Blue 1 at some point but the area is rarely visited unless you fly in with the Russians from Cape Town. It’s certainly do-able but very expensive.
I had a chuckle reading your comment about running out of teabags. The irony for us was despite living in tents, we had five-star meals. Much of the food we ate was fresh (flown in regularly from Cape Town) and the favourite meal for the boys was fresh mango souffle. If you do happen to run out of tea bags, take a skidoo to 71 32S 8 48E. Start digging and you’ll find crates of the stuff. Enjoy your remaining months on that matchless continent. Best wishes – Alexa
Let me know your PO Box down there & I’ll drop some PG Tips in the post for you. And some Nivea.
THE ZEN OF PENGUINS
Rhian Salmon is blogging the poetry & tedium of a year stationed with the British Antarctic Survey on the Brunt Ice Shelf .
Thanks Jeff! I think the ship that delivers post will probably also be delivering teabags so we should be ok but if you want an address, anything along the lines of Rhian, Halley, Antarctica c/o BAS Falkland Islands should work. Can you tell me some beautiful atrocities? I imagine my images and those thought of by a city dweller might be quite different!
Can somebody please explain the concept of teabags to Stefan?