You knew that global warming was bad. But did you know it was this
bad?
If it gets too warm, what is going to happen with traditional wines like
Barolo and Burgundy? They grow in such specifically mild climates and settings,
after all; are these going to be the last vintages of these great wines?
I’ ve been reading several articles on the subject, and two of them struck
me as particularly relevant:
one was about California and how in the next 20 years, with the current trend,
the conditions to grow grapes there will no longer exist.
In fact, already the alcohol content of most California wines is very high;
hotter weather will result in higher sugar content and less water in the grapes.
This natural occurrence has advanced to the point where wineries are now investing
large sums of money in very expensive Spinning
Cone Column machines, or in the painstaking process of reverse osmosis
to remove a certain percentage of excess alcohol (euphemistically described
by the Conetech Corporation as "volatile flavor components") from
wines…
Pietro Colla, chief winemaker of Poderi Colla winery told me that in 2006
he harvested his Dolcetto at the beginning of September, almost a month earlier
than usual, and that the alcohol measured out to 15 % in some parts of the
estate (nearly two points higher than is normal for Dolcetto). Gianluigi Maravalle,
owner of Vitalonga estate, told me that the 2006 was among the hottest years
in the recent past: but more importantly, he had to delay the pruning of his
vines by couple of months because the plants didn’t "shut down,"
or go into dormancy.
Bankers have a habit of thinking about global warming in terms of ways to make
money. (They think about just about everything in terms of ways to
make money.) But if you tell them that it could mean the end of fine Burgundies…
CA is a bit of special case, because of the Humboldt Current. If not for same, recall that my fine home in San Francisco is at the same latitude as Madrid. Yet year-round I enjoy daily temperatures of a very temperate sort, in part because of that cold water offshore. While more-inland portions of Napa and Sonoma might be in trouble, I expect they’ll just switch to Rhone grapes. Coastal areas will still get the marine layer to cool them. All should be well here, more or less. And while Burgundy may be an issue, Champagne should start producing a lot of ’90/’95/’96 vintages, which is to say, fabulous ones. Especially ’96. Man, what a great year there.
Felix thank you for quoting my post.
WCW I agree with you on 1996 and on the fact that in Champagne we will have a strike of excellent vintages like we are experiencing in Piedmont recently. (1996 was also the greatest year for Barolo in the century)
Buona Bevuta a Tutti
Gabrio Tosti
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